{"id":1030,"date":"2012-04-25T22:51:26","date_gmt":"2012-04-25T20:51:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.0blivion.org\/?p=1030"},"modified":"2012-04-27T12:43:03","modified_gmt":"2012-04-27T10:43:03","slug":"route-66-irinas-journal","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.0blivion.org\/?p=1030","title":{"rendered":"Route 66 – Irina’s Journal"},"content":{"rendered":"

Today is Saturday, day 3 of the trip<\/strong><\/h1>\n

<\/strong>Driving from Vegas to Grand Canyon.<\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/a>Just before the entrance to the historical 66 lightning started and shortly after a strong rain. The amazing thing was a rainbow – throughout the whole sky, just above the highway, from one mountain to another… And the sky around it – light gold on the left and pastel pink on the right… We stopped the car and took some pictures. It was so spectacular, that the side of the highway started to be filled up with cars. One by one people pulled off, got out of their cars and took pictures or just stood and watched the sky…<\/p>\n

Shortly after it started getting dark; it’s amazing how early it gets dark around here. The dusk starts around 6 pm and in the beginning you think it’s just because of the heavy clouds, because the sky between them is really light. You just remove your sunglasses and keep them on your head ready to put back any minute. But by 6.30 pm you suddenly realize that your headlight went on and you see the stars. Then you ask yourself a questing how come stars are so bright just to be hit by a sudden realization that they are bright and sharp on the absolutely black desert sky!<\/p>\n

The back mirrors become completely useless – it’s so dark and you so completely alone as far as you can see and you are even wondering sometimes if you actually have any mirrors at all!<\/p>\n

For miles and miles there was nothing but darkness and the road in front of you, as far as your headlights are slicing it from the desert. According to the guide the nice place for a dinner and a room would we in Truxstone, except that GPS had no idea where it is. Which was ok, such as it was supposed to be along the road just 10 miles after Valentino. We haven t really noticed Valentino as such, but there was a road sign with the name, which was good enough as an indicator.<\/p>\n

So, right 10 miles further, as promised, there was a place called “frontier cafe” indeed, with its famous pies. Great place indeed! You really have the feeling you are back into the far west, small simple pub house on the left, low and friendly looking motel houses on the right, quietness and peaceful, just a lonely cat walking on her own business and paying you a short busy look and a couple of crickets somewhere in the dark… That and the fact that the place was closed… Until Monday. It is open every day from 8 am till 8 pm, except… Saturday, when it closes at 2 pm. And Sunday, when it’s just closed. This messed our plans a bit such as it was in fact the last place mentioned in the guide for miles to come. Miles in the total dark. In the desert. Well, there was another one in the old Indian village further away, but not very clear where. We didn’t have much choice but to hope to find it…<\/p>\n

JC took over the driving and we continued the trip. For like about 5 minutes. Then there was a dog, in the middle of the street sniffing on something, far away in front; then a bit closer; then not that far at all! I know JC hates it when I do it, but I screamed anyway. Apparently just in time, because he didn’t see it. He just got a couple of meters to deviate to the left and he managed to avoid it. The dog didn’t look very concerned at all. JC was, and pulled aside. Then the car behind us stopped as well. I was worried that they hit the dog and damaged their car, so we went to check if they were fine. Maybe a bit stupid, I realized walking to that car in the desert, blinded by its front lights and having no idea who will great me there, in what mood, and does he have a gun? Trying to look friendly and natural and keeping my hands where they can see them I approached the driver\u2019s window and said “hi, folks, are you ok?” and a silent “please don’t shoot me!” the window went down and a scared old Indian lady looked at me with eyes filled with fear and cried “I am so scared, what was it?” I explained it was just a dog, they obviously didn’t hit it and it was all right. The Indian guy went to look for a dog, didn’t find it and scared the lady even more because the place was full with police and they would ask questions. Have no idea why? In any case, we tried to calm her and two other ladies down and wished them safe ride.<\/p>\n

Strange night! Desert, stars, black dog on the road, and a car full of native Americans. It felt like weird Castaneda story.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Anyhow, we found next hotel, had great meal, checked in a nice room, I just took a nice hot shower and am going to sleep. The place is Indian, of course with a marble bathroom and a high speed Wi-Fi connection. But no alcohol served and no GSM reception. Strange place Arizona! I love it!<\/p>\n

3 Oct 2010 – Day 4 of the journey<\/strong><\/h1>\n

<\/strong>Travelling from Peach Springs to the South Grand Canyon.<\/h2>\n

First of all, if you ever stay at Hualapai reservation, most particularly in Hualapai Lodge (and to tell you the truth – you don’t have much of a choice in this area) you have to know a couple of things \u2013 Firstly about the lodge, the food in the restaurant is most probably one of the best in the state and there are trains passing by. Trains passing by Colorado Desert are not the same as passing by Brussels. First of all, there are a lot of them. Secondly, they are long. Very long! But the most important – they are horning. Three to four times! Very enthusiastically! The whole night! Just in front of the hotel! You do get free ear plugs though, but they do not help a lot. However, I have to admit, I was so tired that fell asleep almost immediately the moment my head hit the pillow, or rather 4 pillows, from which I somehow managed to build a real nest by the morning, and woke up around 6am, so I am not really complaining.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Secondly, there is one of the “roads less followed” starting just at the hotel and going straight to the Grand Canyon West. Stone road, nothing fancy, 19 miles. Worth every meter! You can drive it at 25 miles\/h max\u2026 If you have 4×4. We could drive 20, max! And it already felt adventurous for the poor car. First you see just sand and some small green stuff, mostly cactuses along the road. And of course, the canyon! All around you! Left, right, in front and in the rear mirror! Brown, red, black, hot from the sun, shady, plateaus, anything I could imagine. The great thing of driving slow is that you can finally switch the Air-co off and open the windows. Feels great to feel the wind, even if I know it will cost me some pain to comb my hair after…<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Then you arrive to the point with a nice plate telling you need a permit to drive further. Well, it’s one mile from the river, so you park the car, put on the boots and start walking. Very fast you realize that you couldn’t get through with a little car anyway – river is crossing it in many places along the way. Little, two cm long, frogs crossing the road here and there, trees and bushes start appearing everywhere, very small pre-frogs swim in springs crossing the road – everything looks like a peaceful piece of paradise. First time a have seen pre-frogs btw, don’t really know how you are supposed to call them.<\/p>\n

Suddenly, a bus comes from up the road, rafters coming back. Friendly folks, you wave to them and say HI, get 30 waving hands and HI\u2019s in return. Walking a bit further, a jeep comes up. Where do they all come from, you wonder? In all 19 miles down you met two cars and you know for a fact that this is the ONLY road in the area. Car slows down. You prepare to great the old Indian guy driving when you read on the jeep \u2013 \u201cpark sheriff\u201d. So, you say hi more carefully. He smiles to you and says –<\/p>\n

“hi folks, where are you heading to?”<\/em>
\nNow, there is an interesting question, how many options are there? So you say \u2013<\/em>
\n\u201cthe river. Is it still far?\u201d<\/em>
\n“No, 400 feet. Have you got a permit?”<\/em>
\n“Eh, no. Do you need one to walk? That is why we left the car at the picnic side”<\/em>
\n\u201cAha, you need a permit to enter the road. 20 miles up”<\/em><\/p>\n

At this moment you get bit nervous, such as you clearly remember reading at the last panel “500 dollar fine”… And try to remember what did the first panel, all the way up the road say, because yes, you have seen it but didn’t take it too serious. And certainly didn’t plan to run into a sheriff.<\/p>\n

The old guy looks at you again and says \u2013<\/p>\n

\u201cWhere do you come from?”<\/em>
\n\u201cBelgium”<\/em>
\n\u201cWell, I am supposed to sell you a permit. It looks like that\u201d big form to fill in \u201cEhhh… Pffff… Uhhmm\u2026\u201d still the sheriff. You see him calculating the time it will take to fill in the whole form and the time left till the lunch.<\/em>
\n\u201cGo ahead guys, enjoy yourself. Be aware of the snakes”<\/em>
\n“Sna – what????”<\/em>
\n\u201cwell, with the rain coming, they will get out”<\/em><\/p>\n

At this moment you remember the state of the road and the fancy city car you are driving. You start getting the idea it will not make it up the hill in mud.<\/p>\n

“So, we should hurry!”<\/em>
\n“No, don’t worry. If it rains, roads don’t get flooded… Very fast.”<\/em>
\nYeah, very reassuring….<\/em>
\n\u201cOk, folks, do you have water with you?”<\/em>
\n\u201cYeah!” (Shaking you backpack, so happy you took it!)<\/em>
\n\u201cHave a nice day! I will be patrolling in case something happens”<\/em>
\n\u201cThanks! You too! And if you see little black car up the road – it’s ours”<\/em><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>You walk further and get to the river. It’s worth seeing it- very wide and calm on the right, completely orange red from the mud, wild and water falling on the left. No idea why. And… The canyon. Magnificent and calm. Makes you feel very small.<\/p>\n

I was driving back. Nothing spectacular to tell about it. Except that I always drive a bit ruff. I never drove 4×4 in my life, but I manage to drive any car like if it is one :-)<\/p>\n

Haven\u2019t seen the sheriff again, I suppose it\u2019s lunch time or the rain. When an old Indian tells you “rain is coming soon” you believe him…<\/p>\n

Stopped for the lunch in the same hotel. Agreed before to take only the pie! Not to feel as bad as yesterday when you could hardly breathe after the lunch. Had a good look at the pies, they had everything! Apple pie, cherry pie, berry pie, chocolate pie, chocolate cream pie… and they all looked delicious!<\/p>\n

I look local tribe specialty – tacos with beef :-)
\nCouldn’t breathe again! Didn’t get to the pie!
\nDriving again. We left the reservation. Got GSM connection! And rain :-)
\nAlmost lost control of the car – heavy rain, very slippery, saw another car off the road with mud and stones from braking.
\nStopped for gas. Got a cool leather hat! :-)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Break for the night in a nice little town Williams. Little motel “Highlander”. Nice cozy place with Wi-Fi. Worth staying here even if only because the woman running it and her kid look like if they can really use the money. Everything is kind of abandoned along this part of the route after the interstate 40 was build and only real route 66 travellers are taking the historical route.<\/p>\n

Going for a beer now :-)<\/p>\n

Day 5 Monday 4th October<\/strong><\/h1>\n

\"\"<\/a>First feeling – terrible headache and general allergy to light… Went for a short drink yesterday, stepped for a moment into local pub. American football was on, with all towns\u2019 supporters there (all 15 of them) with supporting hats, screams and lots of beer. Asked bar-girl for a beer and was confronted with the first puzzling question – draft or bottle. Apparently draft is a tap beer. So, we decided to go for it. Now, the situation did not improve a lot, such as the next question was – which one? I had no idea, so I just asked \u201cwhich one would you recommend?” the answer killed me:<\/p>\n

“Well, we have a really good one! It’s called Stella Artois”.<\/p>\n

After we finished laughing and explained why, girl brought me very nice ale, and I don\u2019t remember anymore what for JC. It was a nice one, and hmmm, rather big. But OK, I was planning to have only one anyway. We enjoyed our beers for a while and discussed what we should do after. TV was just in front of me and willing or not caught my attention. But what guys were doing fighting each other and running on the field with huge numbers I really failed to understand. So, during the commercial I asked a guy next to us to give a short explanation. Instead I got the usual question “where are you from? Oh, Belgium? I like it! We have been there in August! Our daughter lives in London, we visited her and travelled around Europe.” we got into a discussion about our trip and it turned out that he and his wife not only have been in Vegas the same day as us (in the Venetian :-)), but also took the same lost road to the canyon we did! In fact, they were in the only car going down when we were coming up – I had to give them space to pass! :-) That got us into a long discussion about route 66 – apparently they were not locals at all, but coming from New Jersey! During the discussion, his wife came over from souvenir shopping and happily joined the chat “oh, you are from Belgium?! We loved it!” here we go again… In fact, they travelled through the whole France as well – Paris, Toulouse, Napoli… Things like that get you a bit surprised during your first beer. But by the third one you agree that Monet is a great Dutch painter indeed and yes, you did visit his birth house in Bruges as well!<\/p>\n

Plenty other interesting things, but I am not a writer so will try to stick to short notes. Had a nice chat with German girls who live in Chicago now and two Italian Swiss who were playing pool. Got (finally) rough explanation of football rules from a strange but very friendly guy with a smile of tooth paste commercial, dressed like if he is sleeping on the pub floor for a week and clean new shoes… Supported another guy playing pool really well – he won 5 games in a row! We paid for the drinks and I think we left the girl a bigger tip than the bill was – but she was really nice! Got the usual “be safe during your trip!\u201d from pretty much the whole pub. Finally got to the motel and fell asleep instantly.<\/p>\n

Next day, we went to the diner to have a nice breakfast, not being very impressed by the one in motel. Met the strange friendly guy already or still at the street, got a “morning” and a Colgate smile. The diner was great! I thought places like this exist only in the movies, with train like seats, huge cups of coffee and a “simple” breakfast and two scrambled eggs, bacon, potato cake and enormous delicious pancake size of a pizza and amazing syrup.<\/p>\n

After the breakfast I thought I will die and couldn’t breathe, so we went for a short walk downtown. Suddenly the car stopped and somebody cried my name. Here they were – German girls! On their way to the canyon!<\/p>\n

After the walk, compulsory pictures and some shopping.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>Now, the canyon was great! So great, it totally justifies its name :-) we kind of took the wrong path (my fault) but it was fun anyway. Suddenly there was some screaming again. Yep, you are right – our German girls again! I agree, it’s a small canyon, impossible to miss each other. I will not be surprised if we meet them in Chicago as well. Btw, they were lost as well.<\/p>\n

We went a bit further when some light clouds started gathering. Then they got bit darker. And then, well, let\u2019s just say that it was worth seeing this place in a full blown thunderstorm! Very impressive! Very cold as well! Here I understood that my new hat is great and worth every penny! Luckily a bit further was a shuttle bus that brought us back to the parking. We took the car and decided to do the viewpoints. At the next point we got out, spent max 10 min outside, and my nails turned purple from cold. I don t know how cold it was, but hale that fell during the storm was not melting… \"\"<\/a>Some more viewpoints further (not smart, I know) we got totally frozen, but at the last one there was great hot chocolate, so life was wonderful again!<\/p>\n

We left the canyon and just by chance we also passed by Sunset volcano. The national park was already closing, so we kind of were totally alone there. Volcano was not all that interesting, but the view at the forest and the mountains was amazing!\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

We stopped for the night in an authentic route 66 motel, got into a chat with a lady at the reception. Originally polish, she came to the States in 1979 as a student. Now, I will come to this point later, but motel was a total crap. Maybe 20 years ago it was ok, but not anymore. Oh, let’s be honest – it was always crap by the way it looks. Well, bed was clean, shower was hot, I was so tired and sick, I went to sleep at 7pm wearing a pyjama and a pool over .<\/p>\n

Day 6<\/strong><\/h1>\n

I woke up, had a look around and asked myself a question if it was worth running away from your country and leaving all your friends behind to work in a place like that?<\/p>\n

Well, the diner was very nice again, town looked very friendly and nice in the day light, we went to the observatory – very modern, but I prefer the one in Riga. Maybe because I spent a lot of time there with my dad’s friends. Looks like a very nice place to work, however, in the middle of the forest, very peaceful.<\/p>\n

After, we drove to the Petrified Forest. Oh, I forgot, we went through the town where the Pony Express was born and I finally got my first slice of pie with a glass of milk in another \u201chistorical\u201d diner.<\/p>\n

I am making a local dictionary –<\/p>\n

\n